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 Ran Kao Na Gai Ha Yak THE NATION 56 

       I have been writing about places that were fairly upscale but not really expensive with the thought of good hygiene in mind. This weekend I will take you down memory lane. We will be eating at an area that was and still is known for delicious food. My father and people of older generations have been going to these places for years and it is common knowledge amongst food aficionados that this area is definitely one of the great eating places.

       I remember, when I was quite young and my stepfather was general manager of Prachayon, the VW car dealership in those days. His office was near Plup Plar Chai intersection. This intersection has five roads leading to it. It’s behind Wat Thapesirin, where many official royal sponsored cremations are held. There are three wonderful eating places near this intersection. The popularity of these eating-places has somewhat diminished because parking is hard to find and younger generations prefer places that are air-conditioned and fashionable food. You know food that taste awful but being seen at these places is more important than the taste of the food!

       The first restaurant that has been serving the same dishes for the past 30 or so years is situated near the intersection. It is called Pool Lert restaurant. But everyone calls it Ran Kao Na Gai Ha Yak, which means restaurant at 5 street intersection that serves chicken over rice.

       They are famous for marinated chicken pieces stir-fried in a thick sauce poured over rice. This chicken sauce is also poured over freshly cooked egg noodles.They use boneless chicken breast meat cut into cubes and marinate it in sweet black soy for color and sweetness, soy sauce for saltiness, oyster sauce to enhance the flavors, corn starch to tenderize the chicken and make the sauce thick and finally sesame oil for scent. This mixture is left over night in the refrigerator and in the morning it is stir-fried in a hot wok which has oil in it. Once the chicken pieces are cooked, chicken stock is added to make a thick sauce.

       This chicken sauce is then seasoned and a small amount of sesame oil is added. They spoon it over steaming hot rice. Garnish the plate with sliced of green chili peppers which, is not hot but it should be eaten with the dish to enhance the flavors. It is so simple but truly delicious. You can also order the same chicken sauce poured over noodles.

       It’s just as good. For those that want a heavier meal try their sticky rice with red roast pork slices, cucumber and fresh coriander leaves. This dish is seasoned with thick soy and ground peppers. I always eat all three dishes and ask them to take chicken bottoms, (parson’s nose) and make Tom Yum with it. Yes, high in cholesterol but I love it.

       The second place is down a little alley way opposite Wat Plup Plar Chai. They make the best Guway Tiew, (Chinese noodles), with pork and fish balls. The broth is clear like consomme but it has flavor and the fish balls are tender and fresh and bounces in your mouth as you bite into it. Forget air conditioning or attentive waiters or waitresses. This is a noodle shop with no frills but he food is really excellent. I tried both dry rice stick noodles with pork and fish balls.

       The pasta was al dente and just right. Of course, you have to season you own dish with a little fish sauce for saltiness, chillied vinegar for sourness and a little hot dry chili peppers for fire. It is advisable to taste the broth first before you season because for those of you who do not like spicy food the broth as is, is already well seasoned. So, if you want to really go out for a food adventure and roll up your sleeves and get down right basic like the locals, try these two places. You can park at the parking lot at Wat Plup Plar Chai and walk it.

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