I do not know how many of you remember Sukhumvit road when it was just as small Main Street. When there were very few cars on the road, and the area on either side of the road at the railway crossing near Plernchit was paddy fields. Asoke road, was a two lane roughly paved road with ditches on either side of it. All this seems to be quite clear to me and it has been only about 40 years that Bangkok was a much cleaner and prettier town. There were only 1.5 millions Thais in Bangkok and we all could remember which car belonged to what family.

            At that time, I was living in two places at one time. This depended on whether H.M. Queen Rambhai of Rama VII was in Bangkok at Sukhothai Palace or at Her summer Palace in Chantaburi province. I was Her ward and She was my Great Aunt. I went to school on Sukhumvit road at Sathit Prasanmitre School.

            Prasanmitre is Sukhumvit soi 23. It was a very small soi at that time with few houses and to get to school you have to drive pass what appeared to me like paddy fields but in reality was an open area of very tall grasses. My house was on soi 38 and it did not take too long to get to school. The area between Soi Asoke and Soi 23 was dotted with small shops and there seemed to be plenty of parking. There was one particular place that was a favorite of my mother. It was called Bharani. Bharani has been opened since 1949.

            The family of its owner was high officials in the court of H.M. King Rama VII before Thailand changed its system of Government to democracy. It’s a restaurant that served both Thai and Western food. Bharani was one of the first restaurants in Bangkok that served “Farang food” known amongst old families that were educated abroad. I was only a child when I first tasted food there. It has been over twenty years since I have been back there.

            It was like retracing my culinary experience. Although Bangkok has changed a great deal, the food at Bharani has not. People complained that there is no parking on the street in front of the restaurant but these days there is the elevated train, which will take you to Asoke station and within walking distance to the restaurant. If you insist on driving you can always go into soi 23 and down the soi about 150 meters and turn left into a parking lot behind the restaurant.

            The physical appearance of the restaurant has changed a little. They have decorated the shop with displays of things from the past. Old 1950’s radio and gramophone, family pictures over 100 years old, old adding machines and display cupboards full of family heirlooms.

            Now about the food, I have taken up so much space, reminiscing the past. Bharani used to serve Bouillabaisse long before French restaurants opened in Bangkok but these days not too many people know it so we shall stick with the old standard that my mother use to love so much.

            They cook western food to please the Thai palate so you will have to forgive me for recommending these dishes which sounded very western but tasted more flavorful than the mild western dishes. Bharani have been making their own ham and sausages ever since it opened. They use they wonderful ham to make a Thai ham salad, which is quite spicy, dressed with limejuice and a little fish sauce, with lots of chili peppers and served with peanuts and lettuce.

            This dish is a great favorite of drinkers because it goes very well with beer, wine or whisky. Then there is the taco pizza. It is made into small individual pieces and the accompanying salas is different from those that you buy from a jar. The macaroni sauted with onion and ham in a tomato sauce is a standard Thai fare for years and although it may not be the same as the Italian pasta because it may be too sweet for western palate; it’s perfect for Thais.

            They make their own chicken pie. The chef makes both the pastry and the filling here. Strangely enough, we Thais eat chicken pie with ketchup! I actually don’t. But most Thais prefer to eat it that way. There is one fried rice that you should try. It is the salted beef fried rice. Small pieces of salted beef are fried in oil until cooked and crispy and then the same oil that is used in making the fried rice. This gives the rice a very special aroma and taste. You should definitely try it. One last dish that is my favorite ever since I can remember is the beef tongue stew. Large slices of tender beef tongue is served like steak with lots of sauce, which is tangy and a little sweet. It is great. I have relived the past and have not been disappointed and should you want to try out this restaurant try calling them at 02 258 3757-8. They are open from 8.30 am. Until 10.00 PM. everyday.