| The
History of Thai cuisine part I |
THE
NATION 63 |
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           I
was asked by Tourism Authority of Thailand to host and lecture
a group of foreign editors who came to Thailand as guests
of the Government. As you probably know that our Prime Minister
wanted to promote Thailand to the rest of the world, these
quests were invited to see first hand what opportunities exit
for tourism, investments etc.
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           I
received this group at a market by the river and took them
by boat to a Thai style house on Nakorn Chaisri river and
gave a lecture on the history of Thai cuisine as well as doing
a 11 recipes cooking demonstration. I thought that my speech
might be useful for the readers of my column as well as the
public at large. My next two columns will be devoted to the
transcript of this speech.
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FIRST
COLUMN
INTRODUCTION
           It
is my duty today, to give you some background information
on Thai food culture. So today I will take you on a historical
and cultural journey through Thai food history. I will cook
some dishes, which represent typical Thai cuisine. I want
to arm you with background information on Thai food culture
so that you will be able to appreciate our food not only in
terms of its taste but its cultural, historical and even medicinal
qualities.
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RICE
– CENTRAL PAST OF EVERY MEAL & HOW WE EAT THAI FOOD
           In
Asian cultures, rice plays the central part of every meal.
That is to say that we eat everything with rice…well almost
everything. The other important element of every meal, is
that, we share many dishes with our family. Unlike the Western
eating culture where everyone has his or her own plate of
selected food. We have many dishes prepared and put them in
platters or bowls and place them in the middle of the table,
each person is given a plate with rice and take what ever
food they want from the middle of the table. Since everything
is already cut up for you in all the dishes, we eat Thai food
with fork and spoon. The spoon is in your right hand and the
fork is in your left hand. You put food that you want to eat
in the spoon and put the spoon in your mouth not the fork.
Most Western cultures put the fork, which is in your left
hand in your mouth because they have to cut their food. We
also use chopsticks in Thailand and we have the Chinese to
thank for introducing them to us. But we mainly use chopsticks
when we eat noodles or rice porridge, which has many accompanying
condiments. Fork and spoons were brought here to Thailand
by Westerners but we use them differently.
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           THAI
HISTORY A BRIEF SUMMATION
           Thai
history can be roughly divided into 4 main periods. The first
is the Sukhothai period 1238-1350. It is called Sukhothai
period because the center of the first Thai civilization was
at the city of Sukhothai in the northern part of present day
Thailand. Then came the Ayuthaya period 1350-1767. Yes as
you guessed it the capital moved south to the city of Aythaya.
This was the longest period, so far in Thai history when Siam
opened up to the rest of the world and traded. Thai culture
flourished and there were many outside influences, which transformed
and developed Thai cuisine further. Now we see Thai cuisine
come into its own, with its unique characteristics. As Ayuthaya
fell to the invading Burmese, our capital moved down river
to Thonburi (1767-17820). This period, under King Taksin the
Great, Thailand spent most of its time recapturing land lost
to the Burmese. This Thonburi period was brief only 15 years
when the capital moved across the river to Bangkok. Rattanakorin
period was born under the present Chakri Dynasty 219 years
ago (1782-present). Thailand flourished the most in the arts
and culture during peacetime.
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INGREDIENTS
AND COOKING TECHNIQUES
SUKHOTHAI
PERIOD
           Historically
speaking, the kind of food we make is governed my two main
elements. The first is the raw materials for cooking and the
second is the cooking utensils and implements. In the early
day of Thai culinary history,(Sukhothai period), there were
only four cooking techniques available for our forefathers
or cooks. It was a given that we already have fire to cook
with. First we can boil food in an earthen pot, this cooking
technique in Thai is called “Tom” which means boil. Then we
have dips or “jim” in Thai cooking repertoire. At that time
we have pestle and mortar to ground things up and we had lots
of salt to preserve food and one of the preserved foods very
common in Thai cuisine is Kapi or shrimp paste. From this
shrimp paste we can make all kinds of spicy dips to be eaten
with cooked or fresh vegetable and various grilled meats.
The availability of fresh vegetables and fresh fish and all
kinds of fresh water animals gave rise to another cooking
technique “Yum” or salad. The last cooking technique is “Yaang”
or grilling. Usually fish and small game is grilled over an
open fire and eaten with dipping sauce. These cooking techniques
did not change much during the Sukhothai period. I will demonstrate
these early dishes done during this period.
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COOKING
TECHNIQUE MENU ITEM
Tom
or Boiling Gang Liang ( Gang means
soup)
Yaang or Grilling Gung Pao (Grilled
prawns)
Yum or Salad Yum Ma Muang (Green mango
salsa)
Jim or Dip Nam Prik ( Shrimp paste
dip)
See attached recipes.
           I
have only touched on the beginning of Thai cuisine and alas
there is not enough space. In my next column I will continue
the story to present day.
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NAM
PRIK (Shrimp paste dip with vegetables)
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Ingredients:
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| Shrimp
paste wrapped in banana leaves and roasted 2 Tbsp. |
| Garlic,
peeled and sliced 1 Tbsp. |
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| Dry
shrimp, ground 1 Tbsp. |
| Thai
chili peppers, stem removed 1 Tsp. |
| Palm
Sugar 2-3 Tbsp. |
| Fish
Sauce 3 Tbsp. |
| Lime
Juice 3 Tbsp. |
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Accompaniments:
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| Thai
Mackerel, Fried 2 Each |
| Blanched
vegetables |
| Fresh
vegetables |
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Directions:
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1.
Pound the garlic in a mortar to a fine paste. Then add the
shrimp paste and pound further to mix the ingredients well.
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2.
Still pounding away, add the chili peppers and small Thai
eggplant. Pound to crush the chili peppers and bruise the
eggplant a little. Season the mixture in the mortar with pal
sugar, fish sauce, if needed and lime juice. Mix by stirring
with the pestle. The paste should taste salty, sour and slightly
sweet.
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3.
Spoon the dip into a small dip bowl and serve it with the
accompanying vegetable and fried fish.
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