| C’est
bon Restaurant |
THE
NATION 65 |
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           It
often happens in Bangkok, when a good restaurant opens up,
the food is good and the ambiance is pleasant but no one comes
to eat. This is probably because they have not done enough
advertising and probably the location is tucked away down
an alley off the main road. A lot of places opened up hoping
that their cuisine will carry the business and be the marketing
point of the restaurant. Unfortunately not enough is done
to promote the place and eventually it closes down. I hasten
to write about such a restaurant before it closes down.
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           This
restaurant is called “C’est bon” French words which means
its good! It has been opened for over four months and I was
invited to eat there to sample the food by friends who hoped
that I would like it and write about it. It first I was fairly
non- committal. I did not want to be bribed or be made to
feel indebted to my friends who paid for the meal and consequently
feel obliged to write about the place. Well, to my surprise,
after telling my friends about my concerns I went to eat the
food and did not commit myself to anything.
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           C’est
bon is a restaurant which is indeed hard to find because it
is tucked away down the entrance to the hotel Meridien President,
off Pleonchit road. If you were coming from Pleonchit towards
Rajdamri intersection, you turn right into the entrance to
the Meridien President hotel and go straight through toward
the end of the building; you will come to the President place
building infront of you. The road dead ends there and you
will have to turn left to exit at Gaysorn Plaza.
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           The
restaurant is right infront of you before you turn left. It
is decorated in a hip modern style. Its menu is French and
Vietnamese but the Chef Stephen in Canadian French. I tried
the food and returned by myself three times before I decided
to write about it. Chef Stephen is still young and bald. I
asked him jokingly why he shaved his head. He replied that
it was hot in Thailand especially in the kitchen so for comfort
it was better this way.
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           Lets
talk about the food. I tried everything by ordering his degustation
set menu, which was a five or nine course meal. The portions
were small enough and I was able to try everything on the
menu during the three times I have eaten there. Chef Stephen’s
talent lies in his ability to create very rich and wonderful
sauces to go with all his dishes. I particularly like his
fresh Foie Gras in corn pancake and poached Pear William.
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           The
combination of the richness if the foie gras and the pears
which compliments it by cleansing your palate with its sweet
and tartness. Here, the accompanying sauce is a rich glace
the viande enriched with raspberry and caramel.
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           His
pasta with clams sauteed in garlic and herbs is excellent.
He seasons food the way Thais like it. White and green asparagus
salad has a punch to it because it has thinly sliced Parma
ham added to it. The whole thing is dressed with truffle oil
and egg chive dressing. They do fish particularly well. Pan
seared red grouper and king prawn is cooked slightly under
done to retain the sweetness of the fish. It is served on
a fennel and potato ragout and of course the wonderful sauce
made from coriander and ginger jus. I can go on about it all
day but before I write about the special desserts I need to
mention his lamb rack which is roasted and served over a bed
of ratatouille, not the mushy vegetable stew we are familiar
with but fresh and crunchy vegetables.
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           There
is a small piece of fried polenta tucked under the rack and
tender fava beans for more starch. It was not too rich because
all the accompanying vegetables and starch had enough acidity
to cut down the richness. Well, now we come to desserts. I
am diabetic and cannot have too much sugar in my system but
on all three occasions that I went I had to have the warmed
chocolate cake which had a melted center and served with hazelnut
ice cream and coffee crème Anglaise.
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           When
you cut into the cake, the center melts and it tastes as good
as it looks because when you put it in your mouth the chocolate
center melts on your tongue. Why a wonderful finish to your
meal.
           Address
of restaurant : C’est bon President place building, Pleonchit
Road, Tel: 02 656 1531-2
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Taste
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Hygiene
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of raw materials
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Service
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