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Dao Vien restaurant THE NATION 67 

           At the end of December, I braved the traffic on Sathorn and Silom road to join my friends at a new Vietnamese restaurant called Dao Vien on Sathorn Nuea road opposite Asia Bank building which looks like a robot. Sure enough we all got stuck in the traffic for atleast an hour. I should have parked the car near a BTS station and take the train in. It actually stops a little way near the restaurant right after the train turns off Silom road at Surasak station. This property which this restaurant now sits, use to be another restaurant called shutters. You know, a restaurant that all these models opened as a restaurant and bar. It was hoped then that these beautiful women would be the draw. It did not quite work so a real restaurant with serious food opened instead.

           Dao Vien is a Vietnamese word, which means, garden in heaven. The partners who opened this place took their restaurant concept seriously. They did not hire a Thai chef who “knows” how to cook Vietnamese but actually invited a lady called Madame Nga from Ho Chi Min City to actually join them in investing in a restaurant in Bangkok. Madame Nga is quite well known for her cuisine in Ho Chi Min City. She has many restaurants there.

           They decorated the restaurant in Vietnamese style and the kitchen staff was sent to Bangkok to over see the authenticity of the cuisine and the recipes. It is important to understand that there are many types or style of Vietnamese food. Like Thai food, which can be divided into four regional cuisines, Dao Vien’s food is from the middle region of the country. Food from this region of Danang and Hue is considered royal cuisine and differs considerably from the food in the south.

           It is considered more refined and delicate. I have been to Vietnam many times and have discovered that there are many good restaurants in Ho Chi Min City as well as bad ones but what surprised me most is the fact that the food at most Vietnamese restaurants in Bangkok are better than in Vietnam. Fortunately, this is not true of Dao Vien. Dao Vien represents a truly authentic and delicious cuisine of Hue. It’s as good in Vietnam as in Bangkok. We tried many dishes. The usual fresh spring rolls freshly wrapped with rice paper. All the ingredients were fresh crispy and well prepared. The shrimp in the spring rolls were cooked just done and still retained its sweetness and not at all rubbery.

           What was really remarkable is the texture and consistency of the wrapper skin, which had to be dipped in water and allow to soften and dry out just a little before wrapping. If it is allowed to dry out too long the skin will become tough and chewy. If it is too soft the wrapper would break and the dough becomes soft and disintegrates in your mouth. The spring roll was perfectly done with the skin the right consistency. The right amount of chewiness and crunch to each bite. Hue cuisine is also known for its salads. There is the lotus roots salad, which is quite crispy and refreshing. The dressing is similar to a Thai yum but not so spicy.

           There is also the banana blossom salad, which is tossed with lots of fragrant herbs and some cooked meats. It was dressed with a sweet sour and slightly salty dressing made from limejuice, fish sauce and some sugar. It is different from Thai salads in the use of different kinds of herbs and the dressing is not spicy. We tried the fried spring rolls which although very good I preferred the fresh ones much more. I am not sure if it is because I am trying to loose weight that I prefer the lighter of the two.

           Nam Nuang, Vietnamese pork grilled pork balls, this was quite good eaten with lots of vegetables including star fruit which helps cut the greasiness of the pork and at the same time your digestion. Grilled shrimp mousse wrapped around a piece of sugar cane, a wonderful dish, fresh and delightful. This dish is to be eaten with rice stick noodles, lots of vegetables and Thai basil (Bai Horapa). All the food I have mentioned is all very light and easy to digest. Some of you might want to try something more substantial. I suggest you try the crab fried with a very delicate tamarind sauce. You will have to get your hands dirty but it is worth it. You could also order a plate of fried fish sauce marinated chicken wings. It is crispy and very taste good without being too greasy. You could compliment your meat with baked lemongrass rice or end your meal with a bowl of beef Pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) which differs from the Thai version in that it has lots of herbs in it and is very fragrant. There are many other dishes for you to discover and I suggest you give this place a try. There is plenty of parking space or you could take the train there. The food is good and the ambiance is very pleasant. Dao Vien Restaurant, 118 South Sathorn Road, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500. Telephone# 02 266 4961.

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