| Dao
Vien restaurant |
THE
NATION 67 |
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           At
the end of December, I braved the traffic on Sathorn and Silom
road to join my friends at a new Vietnamese restaurant called
Dao Vien on Sathorn Nuea road opposite Asia Bank building
which looks like a robot. Sure enough we all got stuck in
the traffic for atleast an hour. I should have parked the
car near a BTS station and take the train in. It actually
stops a little way near the restaurant right after the train
turns off Silom road at Surasak station. This property which
this restaurant now sits, use to be another restaurant called
shutters. You know, a restaurant that all these models opened
as a restaurant and bar. It was hoped then that these beautiful
women would be the draw. It did not quite work so a real restaurant
with serious food opened instead.
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           Dao
Vien is a Vietnamese word, which means, garden in heaven.
The partners who opened this place took their restaurant concept
seriously. They did not hire a Thai chef who “knows” how to
cook Vietnamese but actually invited a lady called Madame
Nga from Ho Chi Min City to actually join them in investing
in a restaurant in Bangkok. Madame Nga is quite well known
for her cuisine in Ho Chi Min City. She has many restaurants
there.
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           They
decorated the restaurant in Vietnamese style and the kitchen
staff was sent to Bangkok to over see the authenticity of
the cuisine and the recipes. It is important to understand
that there are many types or style of Vietnamese food. Like
Thai food, which can be divided into four regional cuisines,
Dao Vien’s food is from the middle region of the country.
Food from this region of Danang and Hue is considered royal
cuisine and differs considerably from the food in the south.
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           It
is considered more refined and delicate. I have been to Vietnam
many times and have discovered that there are many good restaurants
in Ho Chi Min City as well as bad ones but what surprised
me most is the fact that the food at most Vietnamese restaurants
in Bangkok are better than in Vietnam. Fortunately, this is
not true of Dao Vien. Dao Vien represents a truly authentic
and delicious cuisine of Hue. It’s as good in Vietnam as in
Bangkok. We tried many dishes. The usual fresh spring rolls
freshly wrapped with rice paper. All the ingredients were
fresh crispy and well prepared. The shrimp in the spring rolls
were cooked just done and still retained its sweetness and
not at all rubbery.
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           What
was really remarkable is the texture and consistency of the
wrapper skin, which had to be dipped in water and allow to
soften and dry out just a little before wrapping. If it is
allowed to dry out too long the skin will become tough and
chewy. If it is too soft the wrapper would break and the dough
becomes soft and disintegrates in your mouth. The spring roll
was perfectly done with the skin the right consistency. The
right amount of chewiness and crunch to each bite. Hue cuisine
is also known for its salads. There is the lotus roots salad,
which is quite crispy and refreshing. The dressing is similar
to a Thai yum but not so spicy.
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           There
is also the banana blossom salad, which is tossed with lots
of fragrant herbs and some cooked meats. It was dressed with
a sweet sour and slightly salty dressing made from limejuice,
fish sauce and some sugar. It is different from Thai salads
in the use of different kinds of herbs and the dressing is
not spicy. We tried the fried spring rolls which although
very good I preferred the fresh ones much more. I am not sure
if it is because I am trying to loose weight that I prefer
the lighter of the two.
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           Nam
Nuang, Vietnamese pork grilled pork balls, this was quite
good eaten with lots of vegetables including star fruit which
helps cut the greasiness of the pork and at the same time
your digestion. Grilled shrimp mousse wrapped around a piece
of sugar cane, a wonderful dish, fresh and delightful. This
dish is to be eaten with rice stick noodles, lots of vegetables
and Thai basil (Bai Horapa). All the food I have mentioned
is all very light and easy to digest. Some of you might want
to try something more substantial. I suggest you try the crab
fried with a very delicate tamarind sauce. You will have to
get your hands dirty but it is worth it. You could also order
a plate of fried fish sauce marinated chicken wings. It is
crispy and very taste good without being too greasy. You could
compliment your meat with baked lemongrass rice or end your
meal with a bowl of beef Pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) which
differs from the Thai version in that it has lots of herbs
in it and is very fragrant. There are many other dishes for
you to discover and I suggest you give this place a try. There
is plenty of parking space or you could take the train there.
The food is good and the ambiance is very pleasant. Dao Vien
Restaurant, 118 South Sathorn Road, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500.
Telephone# 02 266 4961.
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Taste
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Hygiene
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Qality
of raw materials
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Service
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