| Suan
Anusorn Resort |
THE
NATION 86 |
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In
my travels two weeks ago to shoot my television program, I
went to Prae Province to visit Pratad Chor Hair. It is a temple
with a large pagoda containing holy relics of the Lord Buddha.
It is said that if you went to Prae and have not visited this
temple and pay respect to the holy relic, you have not arrived
at Prae. I was very luck to be there on the day that they
celebrate a major religious event.
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Villagers
from all around the area arrived early in the morning by all
means of transportation. Some came by bicycle, while others
came in pick up truck taxis, but of all of them carrying gifts
and flowers to climb the hill up to the temple. It was a wonderful
sight and I felt for the first time, in a long time a sense
of peace and belonging for my motherland. Country people in
Thailand are still simple and caring.
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They
are not like city people and it reassured my trust in our
Buddhist culture that we will survive as a nation irrespective
of the economic lost or gains of our economy. As long as Thais
remind themselves that they are Buddhist and do not become
so money hungry and help each other we will be all right.
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I
don’t know why I am beginning to feel this way about my own
country but it might have to do with the changes in value
and the lack of social responsibility of our people. If progress
means losing one’s love for our heritage and our sense of
caring for each other, I would rather become a poor farmer
in the countryside and live a self-sufficient life like His
Majesty The King wisely recommended our people.
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Here
I go again rambling on about something other than food. Actually,
what I have written so far is not too far from the subject
matter I am about to write about. I have always tried to find
places up country where I could see it as a refuge from the
crazy life style in the city. As I get older, I seem to need
to find more and more of these places. A place where you are
surrounded by nature, where the food is good and the accommodations
don’t have to be grand but rustic but comfortable.
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We’’,
I have found such a place very near this temple. We drove
past Pratad Chor Hair to the left of the entrance, going along
a winding road surrounded by rice paddies, mountains and a
winding stream. We went down this road for about 8 kilometers
and came upon a small resort surrounded on three sides by
a stream. To the right past the entrance to the resort restaurant
is a small suspension bridge, which crossed the stream to
another dining area of the resort.
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This
resort is called Suan Anusorn Resort. Its owner a very young
and beautiful lady of 50 or so years who used to be a beautician
started this place about 6 years ago. She has been through
a lot since the opening of the resort. Two years ago the whole
place was flooded and she had to close for repair for almost
two years. Nothing is grand about this place but it certainly
very cute and rustic. You could hire an inner tire and float
in the stream to cool off while enjoying the wonderful cuisine
at the restaurant of this place.
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Speaking
of the food of this place lets eat! They serve local cuisine,
which is basically, northern food and some western fare but
I recommend that you try their northern or Prae cuisine. There
is the famous northern soup/curry called Gang Kare with free
ranging chicken.
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This
is a mild curry without coconut milk with just enough herbs
and spices in the broth to make it perfect for eating with
steamed rice. There is also the unusual Nam Prik called Larm
Bai Born. Made from leaves of a plant, stuffed into bamboo
and roasted over charcoal until cooked and soft. It is then
spooned out and pounded into a paste, herbs and spices are
added and seasoned with fish sauce and other condiments. This
Nam Prik or dip is eaten with rice and companying steamed
and fresh vegetables.
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There
is a soup slightly thicken with rice flour of wild mushrooms
which they pick from the jungle which surrounds the resort.
It is delicate and naturally sweet, with that earthy taste
of the mushroom. The sour curry or Gang Som made from the
branch of a plant called Ton Toon is also very interesting.
It is not too spicy and you should try eating this Gang Som
with Thai omelet or Kai Jeiw. The richness of the eggs which
compliments the sourness of the curry.
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Lastly,
they have a way of cooking snakehead fish, which is unusual,
but it gives the fish added flavor and aroma. This dish Pla
Chon Krabog, they take the fish and marinate it with herbs
and spices and stuff it into a length of bamboo and put the
whole thing on the grill. The resultant grilled fish is very
aromatic and to get the fish out of the bamboo they merely
split the bamboo upon.
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This
dish is truly unusual and delicious. I was very happy sitting
by the stream, taking my time savoring the food and soaking
in the atmosphere of this place. This was heaven. I was woken
up from my reveries when my staff told me that I had a plane
to catch! I will return to this place again when I have the
time and I recommend that those of you that love good food
and rustic natural beauty do try this place.
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I
had mentioned at the end of my last column that I would write
about nam prik. I have to beg your forgiveness for changing
the subject matter this week. I need to rush a review for
meat lovers everywhere because I have just discovered a new
steak house that has recently opened. The name of this steak
house is Park Avenue and it is situated in the Mercury Tower
building opposite Central Chidlom. I happened upon it when
I went to have a very private lunch with an old girlfriend
of mine at Auberge Dab. The food at Auberge is still very
good and definitely very French.
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They
told me at Dab that they have a sister restaurant in the same
building in the lobby area. I remembered seeing it when I
came to a party for Ocean Glass company. They must have known
that I love beef especially good beef. I have written countless
times of the enjoyment I get from eating tender perfectly
cooked steak! Needless to say I went to try the steak there
two days later. It was wonderful but to make sure that this
was not just a luck strike I invited my father and other friends
who are connoisseurs of beef to have dinner with me again.
This time I could try everything on the menu because I make
it a rule that everyone has to order different dishes.
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The
restaurant is decorated with wooden wall paneling. It is not
too grand but very masculine. No bright colored walls of any
sort are found in the dining room, which is a long rectangular
room with raised floor on one side. There are two private
rooms partition off with stain glass doors. A small and very
masculine bar with a baby grand piano sits at one end of the
room near the entrance. All the tables are laid with crisp
white linen. All right, I have talked enough about the ambiance.
Now it’s time to go into the food and how it tasted.
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A
four-page menu was presented to each of our guests. It was
divided into, first courses, salads, and soups. Then came
a full-page description of their beef and steak selections
followed by some seafood and a short light fare menu. I did
not look past the steaks. The first time I came here I ordered
Prime Rib which I wanted medium rare and being the greedy
person that I am I ordered the largest cut they have (Texas
cut). Before launching off on the wonderful and succulent
flavors of the prime rib I should mention some other delicious
dishes which we ordered to tease our appetite.
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There
are the crab cakes, which is done with lots of crabmeat and
breadcrumbs. This dish had no potatoes in the cakes but it
is topped with melted cheese after frying. A small side of
fresh and crispy salad accompanies the crab cakes. Salmon
tartar came in a smoke salmon flower served with toast triangle.
This dish was very delicate and my father ordered it. I had
the steamed mussels in white wine sauce, which was good, but
not as good as the crab cakes. My friend had oyster Rockefeller
that is always good as a standard classical dish.
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It
also depends on the sauce that they made to cover the oyster.
It was good rich hollandaise that was just tart enough not
to make the already rich oyster too greasy. Simple but fresh
salad of rocket with a hot-bacon dressing or your usual Caesar
salad helps you cleanse your palate before the main course
arrived.
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Not
a single one of use ordered fish or seafood. We all had different
cuts of beef. My father order prime rib medium rare but he
did not order the biggest cut. He only had a large eight once
cut. It came out red and pink looked good enough to slice
thin and place between two pieces of bread and have one hell
of an expensive sandwich! But my father was a lot more civilized
than I am. He savored every bite of his steak. As he cuts
into it he heaped a small amount of French mustard in it and
dips it in the gravy before putting it into his mouth.
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My
eyes followed his every move as he ate. I swallowed a few
times while watching him eat. You see, I know how good the
steak here is. It was tender, succulent and best of all the
beef is fresh chilled beef non of this frozen stuff. While
father enjoyed his prime rib, others had their steak served.
There was rib eye steak with maitre d’hotel butter. It was
perfectly cooked with that distinct smokey flavor a charcoal
grill. I had grilled sirloin strip. Well, you guessed it;
I had the largest cut you could get which was 16 ounces. It
was medium rare, sweet with the blood of the beef and so soft
that I hardly had to chew.
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It
almost melted in my mouth. There are other cuts of fresh chilled
beef here but I guess my favorite would have to be the sirloin
strip. There are wonderful desserts to be had here to. Crepe
suzette done tableside but who would have room for dessert
after a very large piece of steak! I forgot to mention the
wine. Although not a very extensive wine list but the have
a fairly good selection old and New World wines to choose
from. All in all, this restaurant is worth your visit if you
are a meat lover. I have not had beef this good since my trips
to United States, Australia and New Zealand. Now I don’t have
to go abroad to eat good beef! And the price is comparable
to that is pay abroad as well.
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Suan
Anusorn Resort
Address 128/1
Moo 4, Tumbon Chor Hair,
Muang District,
Prae Province.
Telephone number 054-599
135
Hours 8.00-21.00
Hours.
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Taste
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Hygiene
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Qality
of raw materials
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Price
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Service
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