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The Nation 115
Kandawgyi Lodge

Kandawgyi Lodge

Chicken curry

Myanmar salad with dry shrimp and lime dressing

   I have just returned from a trip to Mandalay in Myanmar. A friend who had invested in a hotel in Mandalay over seven years ago invited me. Originally the hotel which they built was operated by the French company Novotel group but with the political situation in Myanmar not being so stable the French management company had to withdraw from the country due to political sanctions from the E.U. Consequently my friends family were landed with a hotel called Mandalay Hills Resort to run by themselves. Last year business was very good but this year had suffered from a political situation turning sour between the Myanmar Government and the rest of the Western Nations who discouraged their citizens to travel there. I was with two minds when it came to going to Myanmar. But I decided to go see for myself what the situation was like. Burmese culture has been intertwined with Thai history since the beginning of times and I feel quite a strong bond with my neighbor not as enemy but as a member of ASEAN Nations. I had heard that there was a direct flight to Mandalay by Phuket Air, Unfortunately not enough people know about this direct flight that our return flight from Mandalay would be their last schedule flight. This is a real shame because the Airport in Mandalay is brand new and very convenient for travelers to visit Mandalay.

 

Mandalay is the last capital city of the Kingdom of Myanmar. It’s last King was King Thibor who only ruled for 7 years before the British took over the country and the palace, which they turned into a British garrison. During W.W. II the palace was bombed and burned down and the present Government rebuilt the palace in 1992 as a tourist attraction. There is much history and sights to be seen in Myanmar. I felt sadness to know that during 1950’s Burma was a rich country and its economy was as strong as Hong Kong and Singapore but new everything has changed and there are so many people without work and they are so poor.

- Fish Curry
 - Typical Myanmar starter and snacks at every meal
- Horse drawn carriage to view the town

    The sanctions do not help the people but put them deeper into depth of destitution.The country really needed help but it is politics that does not help the situation. I truly think that dialogue and increase in contacts with the Myanmar authorities would better serve the poor people of the country. One must remember that this is a country that is rich with every kind of resources. It is also a perfect country for tourism considering the many historical sights and cities beginning with Pagan. I only wish that it could open up and allowed to grow slowly.

     I went to one of the hill top station near Mandalay where the British used to spend their summer there because it is very cool in the highland plans of this town called Pyin Oo Lwin. This town has many buildings and country homes built by the British when Burma was a vassal state of United Kingdom. It looked very much like a little England with Botanical Gardens and great homes with fireplaces. I went to visit one such English country home turned Lodge in a horsedrawn carriage when were available for hire. It rode around the town looking at these great homes thinking I was in the English countryside. The air was quite cool and definitely cold in the shade.
     I had a typical Burmese lunch at Kandawgyi Lodge on the deck infront of this old English style country home. The food was very interesting it was a mixture if Indian and South East Asian cuisine and also Chinese cuisine. At the beginning of every meal the Burmese would serve a plate of snacks which consisted of nuts, fried garlic and tea leaves salad. This plate is also served at the end of the meal. Then we had soup, which was lentil soup seasoned with turmeric, and it also has glass noodles in it. I liked it because it was very different and not too thick and greasy. The Burmese eat like us Thais with rice as the main starch, They have dips like out Nam Prik but their food is less spicy.

Palace in the city of Mandalay

Their salads are much like Thai salads with lime and fish sauce dressing but not as spicy. The curries are not like Thai curries but milder and not as highly fragrant as the Indian curries. The chicken and fish curries both used tomatoes, shallots, garlic and ginger blended in a blender as a base and a small amount of spices to give it the fragrance needed. Tamarind juice is also used and it was used perfectly for the sauce in the fish curry. All of us thought what was missing in this otherwise perfect repast was chili peppers but then we came to realized that we are very Thai for wanting to make other people’s food taste as strong and pronounced like ours.

  I enjoyed my meal at The Kandawgyi Lodge very much. I also felt a little strange eating my lunch in front of this English country house in Burma but considering the history of this country there should not be anything strange about it. I was brought back to the present on my was back to Mandalay when I went to see the sun set on the lake with the longest and oldest teak bridge in Amrapura, the ancient Royal Capital. It is am amaising sight seeing the sunset over the U Bein Bridge and a perfect finish for the day tour. I will return again to Mandalay to stay at the Mandalay Hill Resort and visit more sights. There is still Pagan the First City of the Burmese dynasties

U Bien Bridge

Kandawgyi Lodge
Nandar Road, Pyin Oo Lwin
Myanmar
Telephone 95-85-21839,21840. Fax 085-22497

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