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The Nation 116
Guilin Trip, Southern China

 

     Between 18th and 20th of this month I was very fortunate to be asked by Bangkok Airways to accompany HRH Princess Galayani Wattana and Her entourage on a trip to Guilin. Bangkok Airways has just started a new route to Guilin in Southern China. I know practically nothing about this city except I have used their chili sauce in my cooking for many years. I was told that most of the Chinese water color paintings depicting mountains and rivers along the river is actually the mountains along the river Li Giang in Guilin.

            With great anticipation, I departed Bangkok on this special Royal flight which left Bangkok at noon and arrived there some two hours later. It was raining slightly as we touched down at Guilin Airport, which was indeed large and very modern. Prior to our landing we could not see the countryside below because it was very foggy. I was disappointed and feared that it would be really cold but to my surprise it was cool and just misty giving me the feeling that I was about to embark on a romantic tour. The song misty came into my head and I started to hum it while walking to the bus which was to take us into the city of Guilin 40 minutes away. Along the road, we could see through the mist the many mountains jutted out towards the sky. These varied shape mountains certainly reminded me of those Chinese watercolor paintings that are so much identified with China.

         We arrived at the Sheraton Guilin and checked in. We immediately got ready to go to Flute Reed Cave for dinner, which was hosted by Bangkok Airways to honor HRH Princess Galayani Wattana. It was already dark when we arrived at the cave by the authorities have arranged the central hall in the middle of the cave to become a banquet hall. To get top the hall you have to walk along a lit path while admiring the rock formations, the stalactite and stalagmites. You have to use you imagination so you can see natural sculptors of animals. The Sheraton Hotel catered the meal.

 

 

They had to hand carry everything into the cave and set everything up. There was a four-piece string quartet playing classical music and the tables were situated by the large reflecting pool at the far end of the great hall. We dined on crispy salad with smoked Chinese duck. The soup was a mixture of Chinese and French cuisine. A consomme of pigeon with bamboo pith. Tender pieces of the pigeon were added to the comsomme. This taste is very delicate and subtle.

        The main course was roast cod topped with vegetable confit. I was amaized that it tasted so fresh and so delicate considering the limitations of the cooking venue. We toasted to the health of HRH Princess Galayani Wattana and admired the surroundings. How many people would have a chance to have dinner inside this beautiful two million years old cave?The next day we went on a trip along the river to see the famous view of the mountains. It was still very misty and the water level in the river was a little shallow but I felt very happy to see the mountains through the mist.

     I felt like I was inside one of those Chinese paintings. We had lunch on the boat, which was prepared on the boat by Chinese Chef with a fully equipped kitchen at the back of the boat. Guilin is known for a few Chinese delicacies. The first is their fermented beancurd. The beancurd is salted and herbs and other ingredients are added and allowed to ferment until it becomes sour and salty and has a distinctive smell. In Thailand we use fermented beancurds to make sauces or eat then with rice soup. I liked Guilin famous beancurd very much because of the creamy texture of the curds and the distinctive taste and smell. The next famous culinary delight of Guilin is their chili paste which is salted and not too spicy hot but very fragrant. It is used in cooking as well as condiment to be eaten with rice or noodle, very much like our Thai Nam Prik Pao. Guilin turned out to be a food lover’s delight.

 

      Their Guilin rice noodle dish reminds me of the Thai Khanom Jean but they serve it with BBQ pork slices and chili and soy sauce. Their desserts are made from rice flour and had red bean or black sesame seed fillings. While taking a walking along the walking street behind the hotel there are food stalls at every turn. Dr. Prasert, the president of Bangkok Airways, took me to taste fried birds on a skewer. It was a little salty by delicious. You can eat the whole bird bones and all!

        Prices for food was also not very expensive and there are restaurants that serve such delicacies as hundreds of kinds of mushrooms. During the winter months, Guilin people eat dog meat and only blond dogs because they believe that dog meat gives warmth to your body.. I have not been that adventurous to try dog meat and since I have two Labrador Retrievers at home I don’t think I can handle it. You need not be afraid that you might inadvertently be fed dog meat because you need to go to a special restaurant to try dog meat but I won’t! There are lots of other things to eat in Guilin even their waterchestnut are very sweet and crunchy. Our trip to Guilin is very short but it was very informative. If you like great views, beautiful caves, romantic mountains and good food, I think Guilin will suit you fine and is a worthwhile place to visit.

 
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