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The Nation 131

Two Curries, one done in the traditional style and the other with Western influence using coconut milk in the curry.
1. Gaeng Omm Gai
2. Gaeng Ped Gai

        Same ideas one with traditional way of using traditional ingredients while the other has a Western influence by using coconut milk to make the curry creamier and richer.
     Last time I wrote about how Western food culture have influenced and transformed the traditional Thai curry into something richer and perhaps tastier. This week I will continue to give you more examples of this great change in the way we make Thai curries. Today I am going to give you an example of a traditional regional Thai curry from the North East of Thailand or Isan whose curries bare great resemblence to the traditional Gaeng Pa, or jungle style curries. In contrast to this traditional recipe I will give you another popular Thai curry, Gaeng Ped Gai which uses coconut milk to make it richer and creamier.

Gang Omm Gai

Gang Omm Gai

        Traditional Thai curries uses many fresh herbs and spices to give the curry its aroma, flavor and heat. Thai curries of later periods add shrimp paste to their recipe for curry paste. Hence curry paste of later periods in Thai culinary history will have these basic ingredients in it. Galangal, Lemongrass, Kaffir Lime of rind or leaves, shallots, chili peppers, garlic, and shrimp paste. Other herbs and spices are added to it to give each curry recipe a spcific character such as Gaeng Pad curry paste will have dry red chili peppers soaked in water and other spices added to it to give it that specific character. I think, as time goes by I will give you a table of recipes to make various curry paste. I think for now it is sufficient for you to know that you can buy these different types of curry pastes already made for you. Here goes the curry recipes:

Gaeng Omm Gai (Chicken Curry Isan Style)

Ingredients:

Whole free ranging chicken cut up                                                1              each

Chicken gizzards, liver and hearts                                                  200         grams

Fresh shallots, peeled and sliced                                                   3              each

Garlic, peeled and chopped                                                            1              head

Large fresh chili peppers                                                                   4-5          each

Bai Maeng Luck (Thai mint basil) picked                                       1              cup

Green onions, cut into one inch length                                           1              cup

Pak Chee Lao (fresh dill) chopped                                                 1              cup

Bai Ma Krude (kaffir lime leaves)                                                      5              each

Large Thai Chili peppers, cut on a bias                                         5              each

Green papaya, peeled and shredded                                           1              cup

Fish sauce (Nam Pla)                                                                         2              Tbsp

Golden Mountain seasoning sauce                                                2              Tbsp

Pla Rah juice (fremented fish juice)                                                1              Tbsp

Water or stock                                                                                       2-3          cups


Directions:
1. In a pestle and mortar, pound together the sliced shallots, garlic and chili peppers to a rough paste.
2. Heat a pot on the stove and add the chili, garlic and shallot paste. Add a little water to the pot so that the paste does not burn or stick to the bottom of the pot and fry the paste until cooked and fragrant.
3. Add the chicken pieces which has some fat on the skin and cook in the pot over medium heat until chicken is almost done.
4. Add the shredded papaya and water or stock and bring the soup to boil. Once boiling, season the soup with fish sauce, golden mountain seasoning sauce and Pla Rah.
5. Taste the soup to see if it is salty enough. Then add the rest of the vegetables including the sliced chili peppers, stir and take off heat. This curry is traditionally eaten with sticy rice and other dishes such as fried salted fish or Thai omelette.

Tips:
a. Remember that Thai shallots are much smaller that Western shallots. Three Thai shallots equal one Western shallot, but Western shallots are not as fragrant.
b. You do not have to use raw papaya in this recipe but any type of vegetables such as gourd or other types of greens are good substitute.
c. I think I have given you all the facts about Pla Rah but to re-cap; Pla Rah is made from taking fresh fish, add salt and ground unmilled rice to it and allow it to frement over a long period of time and the resultant product is a very fragrant fermented fish which if done right is very delicious. Pla Rah has to be cooked or it’s juice has to be cooked before using in Thai dishes. It is very much like anchovies but has no oil. It is an acquired taste so you can omit it if you do not like it and use fish sauce as substitute.
 
Gang Ped Gai
Gang Ped Gai

Gaeng Ped Gai (Spicy Hot Thai Chicken Curry)

 Ingredients:

Chicken meat sliced                                                                                          300         grams

Red Curry Paste                                                                                                  2              Tbsp.

Coconut Cream                                                                                                   1.5          cups

Coconut milk                                                                                                        4              cups

Fish Sauce                                                                                                            2              Tbsp.

Coconut or Palm sugar                                                                                      1-2          Tsp.

Ma Kua Proh, (Thai Eggplant), quartered                                                      1              cup

Bai Ma Krude, (kaffir lime leaves) torn                                                             2-3          each

Prik Chee Fah, Large chili peppers red & green,Sliced on a bias          2              each
Bai Horapa, (Thai Basil) picked                                                                      1              cup


Directions:
1. Heat one cup of coconut cream in a pot over medium heat until a sheet of coconut fat starts to appear on the surface of the coconut cream. Add the curry paste and spread it out. Do not allow it to lump up. If this does occur add more coconut cream and cook over medium heat until the paste is cooked and actually change color.
2. Add the chicken slices and stir to cook it and allow the curry paste to penetrate the flesh of the chicken.
3. Add the coconut milk to the pot and bring to a boil.
4. Once boiling correct the seasoning with fish sauce and palm sugar. The curry should not taste sweet but should have a hint of sweetness. It should be fragrant, creamy, salty with a hint of sweetness which should come from the natual sweetness of the coconut milk.
5. Add the eggplant, torn kaffir lime leaves, Chili peppers and basil. Stir to mix well and take the curry off heat. Serve with steamed rice, crispy fried salty fish or boiled salted eggs.

Tips:
a. When adding the coconut milk to the curry. You do not have too add all 4 cups. It depends on how rich you would like your curry to be and how salty you curry paste is. Good quality curry paste should not be too salty and a brand of very good quality curry pastes comes to mind. Nitaya Curry Paste. All Thai cooks know it.
b. I guess I need to explain to you again about the sheen on the coconut cream. We want to see this sheen because we want to raise the temperature of the liquid in the pot. Once this sheen or beads of fat appears on the surface of the coconut cream, it means that the fat in the coconut like is beginning to separate from the milk thus raising the temperature of the liquid in the pot. This will help the curry paste gets cooked faster. You also need to watch the heat when cooking the paste in the coconut cream. It should not be too hot or else the paste will burn and you will have a bitter curry on your hand.

 
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