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House of Gurame, Authentic Indonesian Restaurant.

          About one year ago, the lower ground floor of the Grand Hyatt which was once Sogo store was renovated and replaced with a very chic food court containing many restaurants with their own seating areas. There are about 5 restaurants surrounding the central escalator and fountain that leads to the upper floors. These restaurants offer very different types of cuisines and definitely represent the very international flavors of the location of The Urban Kitchen.

           One restaurant, The House of Gurame, have brought authentic Indonesian to Bangkok. I am quite familiar with Indonesian food since my returned to Thailand 12 years ago. In particular, while I was consultant to Thai Airways International for 3 years. On many occasions I had the opportunity to visit Indonesia and sample and learn about Indonesian cuisine. Not too many Thais are familiar with Indonesian food. There are not too many Indonesian Restaurants in Bangkok and I am delighted that House of Gurame has been opened at the Urban Kitchen to give the area another choice of cuisine for Thais and foreign visitors alike.

      Thais take it for granted that our food is always good. We therefore, are not too adventurous in trying something different. This is especially true with Malaysian and Indonesian food. Most of my friends that I invited to try Indonesian food associated Indonesian food with highly spiced cuisine of India. They claimed that it was too highly spiced and the aroma was too over powering.

     
  Obviously, this was a misconception. In order to appreciate the any cuisine we have to first understand the food culture of that country and they way they eat food. Compared to Thai cuisine, Indonesian food is more similar to Indian food but not as heavy as most people imagined. To Thai taste bud, Indonesian food is probably too bland for us but if you were to understand their eating culture and the selection of ingredients that they use in their cooking you would be able to appreciate their cuisine much more.

        Their Satay is definitely much better their ours. Each stick of Satay is full of juicy and thick pieces of beef and chicken. It is spiced and seasoned perfectly. You can certainly wrap your lips around each piece of meat and savor the aroma and juiciness. Thai Satay tends to be thin slices of meat, marinated, skewered and grilled. The resultant product is most times chewy and rather dry. To my surprise Gurame’s satays juicy and not too sweet like most Thai Satays. Their sauce is also similar to the Thai version but not as sweet although thicker. Two vegetarian dishes which I tried were very tasty. Sambal Terong or fried eggplant with spicy Sambal chili paste on top, was delicious. You need to eat it with rice though, for I found that the fried eggplant was oily and quite rich.

           Their Kang Kung Cah or stir-fry morning glory with shrimp paste, was similar to a Chinese dish. The smell of the shrimp paste lends this dish a special aroma and flavor. You can see the influences of Malay, Indian and Chinese food cultures in Indonesian food. Ikan Bakar or grilled marinated fish represents Chinese and Indian influences. The fish is marinated in a special soy sauce that the Indonesian use in their cuisine which does not have the scent of the fermented soy beans. Brown sugar is used to give the marinade a more mellow sweetness to the BBQ fish.

        
    Gurame Goreng is very Chinese. Here they use fresh water fish and filleted the meat and retaining the bones, deep fry it and serve with spicy soy dipping sauce. But here again the dipping sauce is more mellow and not what most Thais would serve with fried fish. I am sure they would prefer a spicy salty and sour chili garlic dipping sauce instead but I was quite content with the sauce that came with the fish. Most of the curries especially curry fish head with okra, Gu Lai Ikan, has Indian influence but is definitely spiced much lighter than the Southern Indian fish head curry. I loved it because it was quite light and the fish head was very fresh. Rendang Daging, similar to Thai beef mussamun curry was richers and heavier and does not have that hint of sourness as in the Thai Mussamun but it was not sweet either.

     The flavor and texture is more Indian than Thai Mussamun but not as rich and heavy as the Indian curries. Unfortunately, there were not many people when I had dinner at House of Gurame so I was only able to taste a few dishes but I found that their food to be quite representative of the food Thai I had tried and tasted in Indonesia.

         I think many of you who read my column are familiar with Indonesian food and even some of you like it. I hope that my writing about this new eatery will entice you to take the sky train to the Urban Kitchen. And for my fellow Thais who would like to try Indian food but are afraid of the heavy spices will find that Indonesian food is a very pleasant blend of Indian, Chinese and Malay flavors that is quite pleasant for your palate.

House of Gurame Urban Kitchen, Lower Ground Floor,
Erawan Bangkok,
494 Plernchit Road, Bangkok 10330
Telephone: 0 2250 7688

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