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The nation 149

Marnee Thai San Francisco

            I have just returned from USA working for the Thai foreign Ministry for the second time. I was on a lecture, demo and workshop on Thai cuisine project where I go to well known chef schools to teach chef instructors about Thai cuisine. On this trip I went to two institutions. The first was at CSCA or Culinary Schools of Southern California in Pasadena and The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in the Napa Valley, near San Francisco.

           The latter is the West Coast branch of my old school CIA in Hyde Park, New York. While I was at Greystone I met a Thai chef and restaurant owner who came to assist me as well as participated in the filming of the food demonstration. Chef Chai Siriyarn is quite well known for his cuisine at his two restaurants in San Francisco. An unassuming man with great talent, his restaurant has been awarded the prestigious Zagat award. A highly priced award much like the Guide Michelin in France or Shell Chuan Chim in Thailand.

entrance to Marnee Thai restaurant

 

The rear dining room

      It is my opinion that it is futile for the Thai Government to spend so much money to give out Thai Select Award to Thai restaurants abroad because this means nothing to all those farangs who will be eating at these Thai restaurants. The objectives of Thailand kitchen of the world as I understand it are basically three folds; first, to increase the number of Thai restaurants all over the world. Second, as the number of Thai restaurants increases, export of Thai products will increase. Thirdly to increase the awareness and popularity of Thai cuisine all over the world, which in turns will translate into more export for our products.

     
  My role is in the third objective. The ability to cook Thai should not be the exclusive right of Thais if we really want to export more Thai products and see Thai food being cooked more in farang homes. Thai restaurants abroad are there to offer a taste of Thailand to patrons that are predominantly non-Thais. There are two types of Thai restaurants. The traditional Mon and Pop operation which serves traditional original Thai cuisine and the more upscale Thai fusion restaurants like Chef Ian Chalermkitichai’ s restaurant “Kittichai” in New York. If our objective is to promote export of Thai raw materials, then we should not limit ourselves to the narrow definition of Thai cuisine and who should be cooking it.

 

            We should rather recognize it for what they are, traditional and original Thai cuisine or fusion/re-designed Thai cuisine which still uses that traditional Thai ingredients but uses western cooking processes and presentation ideas. Chef Chai’s food at his restaurants is traditional.

        
    Zagat recognized it as such and Chef Chai still maintains the standard of taste that is true Thai taste. His menu consisted of traditional Thai dishes like Por Pia Tod or fried spring rolls that were crispy and fragrant with your traditional sweet and sour dipping sauce. The chicken satay was very tender and perfectly seasoned.

        His Mee Krob reminded me of those that I use to have when I was in Sukhothai Palace in my youth. It was crispy and candy like with the scent of orange peel which in Thai original recipe uses Som Sah (Chinese Orange) but here Chef Chai uses the zest of Sunkist orange! I use to eat the Mee Krob with Green Curry but was too Graeng Jai to ask. Another remarkable dish was Tod Mun Kao Poad, (corn fritters) served with cucumber salsa.

        These were crispy on the out side and sweet and tender on the inside. We ate so much food that day; some of the more memorable dishes were Pad Thai with Glass noodles, Prik Khing shrimp and long beans. Then Chef Chai came out with his piece de resistance which is not usually on the menu, Dungeness crabs done two ways, with garlic and black peppers and in a curry sauce.

 

 

          These were crispy on the out side and sweet and tender on the inside. We ate so much food that day; some of the more memorable dishes were Pad Thai with Glass noodles, Prik Khing shrimp and long beans. Then Chef Chai came out with his piece de resistance which is not usually on the menu, Dungeness crabs done two ways, with garlic and black peppers and in a curry sauce.

          This time I had to get my hands really dirty to really enjoy these two dishes. Chef Chai has two restaurants in San Francisco of the same name, both are traditional Thai cuisine restaurants and Chef Chai makes all the sauces himself. I hope to be able to go back to USA again soon to try more of Chef Chai’s cuisine.

2225 Irving Street,
San Francisco, CA 94122
Tel: 415 665 9500
2nd Branch
1243 9th Avenue,
San Francisco, CA 94122

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